Making reds that pop as explained by Eufora Color Trainers. Hint: customization is key to achieving incomparable reds that are shiny and vibrant.
Reds that pop are those that appear almost “redder than red”, reflecting an exuberant vibrancy and shine. For those colorists who have mastered the formula for a fire engine, level 6, red hue… but just can’t figure out how to get that pop, it may be time to bring on the customization, pairing EuforaColor and Artisan Direct Dye.
EuforaColor Brand Manager, Doug Smith, shares, “Reds can be tricky as they often lack vibrancy and shine. So what is the secret to the long lasting, vibrant reds? At Eufora, every fire engine red must get a glossy coat of Artisan Red Rose to seal in lasting vibrancy. For example, fuschia red tones will shine brighter with a pearl of Artisan Pink Peony added into the Red Rose base, and red violets become vixen-like when a drop of Artisan Purple Iris is blended into the formula. Customizing every red to the ideal tone gives colorists the power to create a personal artistic signature that cannot be replicated by anyone else.”
The Eufora Red Vixen is a perfect example of a signature reds that pops. This look was custom-crafted by EuforaColor Trainers, Joanne Rempel and Peter Brokt, for a Eufora photo shoot. The formula is detailed below:
Three steps to make a red that pops
STEP 1: Pre-lighten hair.
LIghtening Formula:
● Equal parts: AloeLite Blue Bleaching Powder and AloeLite Cream Lightener
● EuforaColor Universal Cream Developer – 20 Volume (6 %)
● Mix at a 1:2 mixing ratio
● 1 pump COLOR ELIXIR PROFESSIONAL ADDITIVE – Step 1 for every 30 grams of mixed lightener. Mix and apply. (NOTE: if using 30 to 40 Volume developer, add 2 pumps for every 30 grams of mixed lightener.)
Lift to Level 7. Rinse and cleanse hair with shampoo of choice. DO NOT CONDITION. Apply Eufora Fortifi Keratin Repair to balance porosity and rough dry hair about 80%.
STEP 2: Create a dimensional red by custom blending a formula for the base, mids/ends and a few lowlights at the fringe and edges.
Color Formula 1: Base/Root Area
● 20 grams Low Ammonia 5.66/5RR Light Intense Red Brown
● 20 grams Low Ammonia 7.6/7R Medium Red Blonde
● 20 grams No Ammonia 6.6/6R Dark Red Blonde
● 10 grams Red Intensifier
● Thoroughly mix color in bowl BEFORE adding developer
● 110 grams Universal Cream Developer – 15 Volume (4.5%)
● 6 pumps COLOR ELIXIR PROFESSIONAL ADDITIVE – Step 1
Thoroughly mix and apply Formula 1 to base and “smudge” out about 2 inches.
Color Formula 2: Mids/Ends
● 10 grams Low Ammonia 5.6/5R Light Red Brown
● 20 grams Low Ammonia 7.6/7R Medium Red Blonde
● 10 grams Red Intensifier
● Thoroughly mix color in bowl BEFORE adding developer
● 100 grams Universal Cream Developer – 20 Volume (6%)
● 5 pumps COLOR ELIXIR PROFESSIONAL ADDITIVE – Step 1
Thoroughly mix and apply Formula 2 to mids and ends (“smudge” into base between fingers to create a dimensional shift from one to the other).
Color Formula 3: Dimensional Lowlights
● 20 grams No Ammonia 1.0/1N Black
● 30 grams Universal Cream Developer – 10 Volume (3%)
● 1.5 pumps COLOR ELIXIR PROFESSIONAL ADDITIVE – Step 1
Create a wide weave foil on either side of the fringe (near the parietal ridge – underneath top ⅓ of fringe for subtlety), then create three diagonal slice foils at the side of the ear. Then place two diagonal slices ¼” above the back/bottom hairline (below the occipital bone). Once all foils are placed, process the entire application for 25 minutes. Finally, thoroughly rinse and cleanse with shampoo of choice. DO NOT CONDITION. Dry 100%
STEP 3: Create a red that pops by “floating” Artisan Direct Dye over the hair.
Artisan Float Formula:
● 150 grams Artisan Red Rose
● 5 grams Artisan Purple Iris
● 5 pumps COLOR ELIXIR PROFESSIONAL ADDITIVE – Step 1
Apply the Artisan Float Formula globally and process for 30 minutes. Then rinse hair until water runs clear and seal with COLOR ELIXIR PROFESSIONAL SEALER – Step 2 , allow to penetrate for 7 minutes. Then rinse thoroughly and style as desired.
For other important color tips by Joanne Rempel, follow the link!
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