Mastering curls means recognizing the coily, kinky, wavy, frizzy and unruly! Clients show up in the salon with every type of curl, so mastering this gorgeous texture is a must.
When tackling textured hair and mastering curls, the first rule is… pay attention to tension! Denman Ambassador Brandon Messinger is something of a curl and afro specialist and is a past finalist for Afro Hairdresser of the Year at the British Hairdressing Awards. Brandon says “Never apply too much tension to curly hair when you are cutting. To judge length, always cut the hair at its natural fall.” Mike Taylor, Denman Ambassador and barber agrees “Generally speaking, curly hair should be cut with less tension to avoid stretching the hair and resulting in an uneven cut or too much length being removed.” Be warned however as tension can vary wildly within one head of hair, so take time to get to know your clients hair in both its dry and wet state before starting the service.
Tips for mastering curls
The styling method and the tools you use will have a huge impact on the style you are planning to achieve for your client.
“The best way to give bounce and root lift when you are diffusing is to pile the hair into the diffuser cup and then press the diffuser into the hair and scrunch it up on to the head. This will give more of a volumizing effect to activate the curls at the root and give more lift. If you want less volume, don’t scrunch the hair into the diffuser and push it on to the head, just diffuse very gently hovering around the head to gently dry the hair without frizz,” explains Brandon.
Mike Taylor says “In terms of brushing and drying, I always find a diffuser works great. Use on a medium speed and heat to dry out the excess moisture but don’t dry to 100% as this will risk it looking over-dried and frizzy. Dry to 80% and let the rest dry naturally. For products, use a salt spray and dry into the hair using your hands or a diffuser and finish by manipulating the hair into place with a Denman Fantail Comb.” Minimum product is best to define curls and preserve them without weighing them down.
Add color to make curls pop!
When mastering curls, color can really make the cut pop and accentuate the amazing texture. Denman Ambassador and color specialist Georgia Belle says “The main challenge when coloring curly hair is depleting the curl. Curly hair is naturally thirsty for moisture. So when doing any bleach work it can be even more challenging. You must be mindful. When looking for the correct placement with curly hair, shake those natural curls out baby! Look at where the curl is naturally falling as it is always a great indication of where to place your color to make it pop.”
A complete range of Denman styling tools!
Denman offers an entire line of styling tools to meet your every need behind the chair.
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